A Review of Whyte Ave’s Made by Marcus
Review by Ridita Manzur
Guest writer from the University of Alberta’s Creative Non-Fiction writing program
The sky was gray and fresh from rain, and the wind howled and snapped at us like a wounded dog. Yet, I was as happy as a clam. I had insisted to my friends that we wear flouncy floral princess dresses that day as we walked over to Whyte Ave, anticipating heaping scoops of ice cream from Made by Marcus.
The Calgary-born ice cream parlour was the brainchild of Marcus Purtzki, a man who has mastered ice cream making down to a science. His background includes a bachelor’s in food science, a master’s in nutrition, and experience working at a Michelin-star restaurant in New York. When he relocated to Calgary in support of his wife’s pediatrician practice, he pivoted to entrepreneurship.
The ice cream was initially a byproduct of preventing food waste. Purtzki was focused on pastry at the time, specializing in French macaroons that required untainted egg whites for the meringue batter. To make use of the discarded yolks, Purtzki decided to start making ice cream.
This spin-off turned out to be far more profitable than the macaroons. Made by Marcus filled a niche in the ice cream market for unique, scientifically trialled flavours that only someone with a culinary and food science background could accomplish. He became known for creating ice cream that incorporated savoury flavours like Satay Thai Peanut & Fish Sauce and unconventional combinations like Black Truffle & Honey.
“Food science helps you see the system as a whole, how flavours and ingredients and textures work, how the packaging works,” he said in an interview with CBC.
“It’s the experiments, the tinkering. We went through phases where we thought we knew how to make ice cream, and then we were like, no, let’s scrap that and do it this way.”
There’s always a sense of magic when you enter the little alleyway that leads you to the hidden shop. It sat on the busiest section of Whyte, right across from The Buckingham. I had insisted to my friends that we dress like princesses that day to commemorate the first ice cream of the warm months. Nestled within the historic brick buildings of Whyte Ave, there’s a wrought iron gate with a bright yellow sign saying “Made by Marcus Ice Cream” in blue text. My friends and I, donned in our princess dresses, walked through the gate and into the narrow alleyway lit up with whimsical string lights, the scent of waffle cones guiding our way.
The line was as long as always, a swarm of chilly, sweet-toothed Canadians tracing the perimeter of the small store and the alleyway. The swarm of people didn’t seem to matter to the efficient employees. It was a team of three young 20-somethings who somehow managed to take orders, scoop ice cream, clean between scoops, check for allergies, and cash everyone out with the speed and precision of a well-oiled machine. They churned nonstop with brilliant service. I think we spent less than ten minutes in line.
Their flavours were plastered on a large board at the back of the shop, with information on prices and which flavours were gluten free, vegan, or contained nuts. Their kids scoops were $4, their split single was $6, their double scoop was $8, a flight of four scoops was $11, and if you wanted a waffle cone it was as extra $1.50. They offered sundaes with various toppings like hot fudge and sprinkles as well for $8. If you really liked a particular flavour, you could buy it as a pint and take it home for $10.
Nearly all of their flavours were gluten free, making it perfect for people with celiac. They have three regular non-dairy flavours including Sea Change Prairie Fairy Sorbet, Chocolate Fudge Brownie, and Cinnamon Snickerdoodle. On their seasonal menu they usually have at least one vegan option. On our trip it was Vegan Mango Sticky Rice.
My friends Mary and Kaylee got a flight of four scoops to share between them, including passionfruit basil, malted chocolate honeycomb, Earl Grey cherries jubilee, and lemon curd blueberry. Joanna got a serving of chocolate lava cake and Earl Grey cherries jubilee, while I got the passionfruit basil and manchego peppercorn & rhubarb.
Tasting Made by Marcus is like experiencing ice cream as a kid again. As a child, everything is new and unique. Chocolate is a novelty. But the magic wears off the more chocolate ice cream you eat. Especially when you realize that most chocolate ice creams taste the same, since it’s usually just a vanilla base with chocolate syrup mixed in.
Made by Marcus commits itself to being different, and to bringing the magic of ice cream back to adults. It inspires curiosity and manages to surprise bored taste buds. When I tasted my scoop of manchego rhubarb & peppercorn, I could appreciate the rich, savoury taste of cheese highlighted with slightly sweet notes of rhubarb. It complimented the scoop of passionfruit basil perfectly, the other flavour adding an acidic tartness and bitter herbal note to the rich, fatty manchego.
Not all of the flavours were perfect for everyone of course. Kaylee and Mary found the bitterness of the passionfruit basil unpleasant, and the cherries in the Earl Grey cherries jubilee were far too large and had an unpleasant boozy taste, clashing with the subtle bergamot flavours traditionally found in Earl Grey. But that’s also the fun of Made by Marcus. Even if some of the flavours are odd or somewhat unappetizing, it’s still an experience in something new and experimental. The small creamery takes risks with its flavours, occasionally resulting in losses, but mostly succeeding in bringing whimsy and surprise back into a very simple classic treat.
The day was cold and blustery. Our dresses flapped in the wind and our skin prickled with goosebumps as we walked into a crowded alley with little to no seating. By any logical account, it would have been the worst time to get ice cream. But with three of my best friends there to enjoy the novelty and inventiveness of the Willy Wonkaesque fairy-tale ice cream shop that Made by Marcus is, I felt everything bad about the world melt away to be replaced with the same wonder and curiosity I felt when I had my first taste of ice cream as a child.
Made by Marcus
website
hours: 11 am – 11 pm
Locations:
Whyte Avenue
10426 82nd Ave NW Edmonton
780-705-7015
Brewery District
10429 121 St NW Edmonton
780-250-7998
Mill Creek (opening Summer 2025)
9853- 89 Ave NW Edmonton
